I started off by gathering all the necessary parts and laying them out. I had the Lowrance Kayak Scupper Installation Kit, the remaining pieces from the Elite 5 DSI package, a wire seal with water tight cap, the RAM mount with the YakAttak 1" Screwball for use with the GearTrac setup and two pieces of STS from Stewart Products. The STS pieces are going to be used as additional gaskets to help keep water out of the hull.
The key to this modification is having your kayak hull elevated, so that you can get physically underneath and see the sizing of the scupper hole relative to the bracket. Make sure you wear appropriate eye protection during this process, since pieces of hot plastic will be flying around. I started off by rounding the edges slowly until I achieved a snug fit. After about 15 minutes of trimming and grinding the mounting bracket, I ended up removing the entire flange pieces and even tapering the portion of the bracket housing that fits inside the scupper hole.
Next, I provided wire cap from Lowrance has a 1" opening, so once you decide on where you want the wire cap to be located relative to your scupper kit, you will need to cutout a 1" hole to not only route your transducer wire, but also for the installation of the wire cap. This is another step where the DIY customization was applied. The provided rubber gasket that marries up to the 3 small screw holes in the wire seal does not provide any measure of waterproofing or keeping water out. So this is where one of the small pieces of STS came in handy.
I made an "X" cut in the STS piece, removed the backing from the STS, and adhered it over the 1" hole I had made on the rear side of the hull cross member behind the seat. Insert the wire cap seal and orient the cable notch toward the bottom to avoid any unnecessary kinks in the transducer wire. Using the tiny phillips head screwdriver, insert each of the three screws and tightening them down until snug. When you are finished, you should only have about 3" of transducer wire visible.
The next step is deciding where you want the transducer and power cables routed in your kayak. I decided to route my cables so that they came through the hull inside the left hand storage pouch. The reason I opted for this location is that it permitted me to store the cable when not in use or transport but still allow enough slack to connect to the head unit. First step is to remove the side pocket and mark your location of where you want the hole. Then cut a hole large enough to fit the cable end locking collar. This is significantly larger than the cable itself and was slightly larger than the diameter of the wire seal I was planning on using.
Total install time - 3 hours (mostly due to my lack of having a true workspace)
Until next time, get out and get on some fish, tight lines, and always leave the water cleaner than when you arrived.