installed the Lowrance Scupper Kit awhile back and had also configured my power solution to utilize the rear hatch on my Revolution. After some heavy usage over the course of four months in both fresh and salt water, my transducer bracket snapped into two pieces forcing me to contemplate my options. Option 1 - contact Lowrance and advise them of the issue. This approach would have more than likely resulted in a new bracket assembly sent as a replacement. While this option was viable, it realistically would have resulted in an identical end result. Option 2 - use a different mounting solution with a more sturdy design.
After some thought and countless trips to the local home improvement store for parts and hand drawn designs, I ended up returning all of them and opting for a "ready-to-install" solution produced by RAM Mounts - so I ordered the RAM Transducer ARM Kit from HOOK1 and installed it today. My new goal for this install was to have a setup that was completely removable to prevent corrosion of the connections over time and also to afford the chance to use the setup on another kayak (in the near future hopefully).
When the kit arrives, the first thing you will notice is that there are no instructions; however, simply laying the few pieces out on the table will quickly reveal how they are pieced together. The installation kit includes: three phillips head bolts, three nylon insert lock nuts, a RAM connector (one RAM female end and one hexagon end), two end pieces (one for the transducer and one hex mount for RAM connector). Also included in the package is an aluminum rod and a black plastic protective cover.
NOTE: I ordered my kit without any mounting base, because I already had an extra 1" Screwball. Your situation may differ and may require selecting a mounting option at the time of your order.
INSTALL NOTE: You will need the following tools to complete this install - a #2 phillips screwdriver, zip ties and a pair of wire cutters
YakAttack GearTracs installed, so I mounted mine on the port side in front of me.
NOTE: Remember, no zip ties are provided in the kit, so you will need to provide your own. I only had colored ones for now, so I used a hi-vis yellow set until I can purchase some black ones. When securing the cable, allow a little play in the cable until you get it positioned correctly before you tighten down the zip ties. Once you have it positioned correctly, tighten them down snugly but not too far otherwise you will risk cutting into the cable. Once you are completed, the final product should look similar to this:
I rigged up the container with a couple of one-hole lashing hooks. I used a countersink drill bit to recess the lashing hook openings to accommodate a couple of the extra 1" stainless mounting bolts I had lying around. I paired the bolts up with a well nut on the inside of the container thus creating a lashing point for the bungee I was going to use to hold the container in place while on the water. The end result was this.....
1. The install routed all cabling without drilling any openings in the kayak.
2. The cabling is secured by the front hatch lanyard to keep it out of my way while pedaling.
3. The extra cabling is held up using a series of zip ties to ensure the cables don't rest in water.
4. The battery box rests snugly in front of the mast post inside the front hatch.
5. I sold my Elite 5 DSI and replaced it with the new Elite-4x DSI for a smaller profile.
After all was said and done, I secured everything and powered on the new electronics, and ......SUCCESS!!!
Hope you found this installation how-to useful.
Until next time, tight lines and safe passages!